Tips & Tricks

These are topics we commonly hear our customers want to discuss. If you don't see a topic here that you think should be added, please let me know and I will add it.

HOW MUCH PAINT SHOULD YOU BUY?

It is difficult to know how much paint to buy until you know how many coats of paint it will take to completely hide the existing color. Most paint manufacturers recommend you apply a gallon of their paint to 400 square feet (that would be 20' by20') of smooth, sealed surface. If you were to apply one gallon to 200 sq.ft. of smooth surface in one application, then you would have applied the paint twice as thick as the manufacturer recommends. I recommend you buy less paint than you think and make another trip to the paint store for more paint, rather than over-buy and be stuck with more paint than needed. If you do see that you will need more paint, try to stop painting at a natural break-point, incase the new can of paint is not exactly identical in color to the paint you already applied.

Benjamin Moore has created this handy calculator that will help you know how much paint to buy: PAINT CALCULATOR

NEED HELP WITH COLOR?

Here you go...[1]

HOW DO I SELECT A PAINTING CONTRACTOR?

I want to have a professional paint my house. How do I find a good house painter and what information should I require in the quote?

Those are both good questions. To find a good painting contractor, ask friends, neighbors or call us for recommendations. Once you're ready to talk to the painter, ask for and check references. When they give you a quote, get a firm price and both a start and finish date, find out who will actually do the work, check to see if the contractor has liability insurance (and bonding if necessary), and never pay in advance. A bid or contract also should include a list of the work that is to be done, how many coats for each surface, the paint manufacturer and paint quality level to be used for each part of the job, the preparation work that will be done, and who furnishes the paint and other materials. Check the colors to be sure they are the right colors and in the right place. Keep an eye on the project progress and advise the contractor if you have any objections. Speak up early if you have any objections. Don't wait until all the work is done to express yourself. Supervise the progress of the progress and speak up early if you see anything you don't like. Make sure the right colors are going in the right place.

HOW MUCH SHEEN SHOULD THE PAINT HAVE?

When purchasing paint, I've been asked if I want flat, high gloss, satin and even an eggshell finish. What do these terms mean, and does it really make any difference what kind of finish I have? Those terms refer to the sheen or gloss level of the paint, and, yes, it does make a difference which one you use. The sheen or gloss level simply means the degree of light reflectance of the paint. The terms you mention are ones that various manufacturers use to describe the shininess of their products. The following chart explains what each term means, and where paint with that type of gloss should be used. Your local independent paint retailer also can recommend the type of gloss you need for your particular paint project.

• High Gloss (70+ on a 60-degree gloss meter)

Where to Use: For kitchen and bathroom walls, kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs and window sills. Comments: More durable, stain-resistant and easier to wash. However, the higher the gloss, the more likely surface imperfections will be noticed.

• Semi-gloss (35 to 70 on a 60-degree gloss meter)

Where to Use: For kitchen and bathroom walls, hallways, children's rooms, playrooms, doors, woodwork and trim. Comments: More stain-resistant and easier to clean than flat paints. Better than flat for high-traffic areas.

• Satin or Pearl (Range overlapping eggshell and semi-gloss)

Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell. Eggshell (20 to 30 on a 60-degree gloss meter) Where to Use: Can be used in place of flat paints on wall surfaces especially in halls, bathrooms and playrooms. Can be used in place of semi-gloss paints on trim for a less shiny appearance. Comments: It resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance.

• Flat (less than 15 on a 60-degree gloss meter)

Where to Use: For general use on walls and ceilings. Comments: Hides surface imperfections. Stain removal can be difficult. Use for uniform, non-reflecting appearance. Best suited for low-traffic areas.

• Matte

Same characteristics as flat except much more scrubable.

CAN I PAINT VINYL OR ALUMINUM SIDING?

I have vinyl siding that I thought was going to look like new forever. Now it has started to fade and has weather-damaged areas. Must I replace it or can I paint it and save some money? Painting your old vinyl siding makes good sense both economically and aesthetically. Not only can you make it look like new again, you can, if you wish, change the color and give it a whole new look. Note that you can do the same thing with aluminum siding. Surface preparation and the use of a quality paint are the keys to painting both vinyl and aluminum siding. (However, check with the siding manufacturer to make sure that painting does not void the warranty.) But be sure you do not paint it with a color that is darker than the original color. Radient energy from the sun may warp the vinyl or aluminum in our hot sun.

For vinyl, the first step is to remove any chalking and stains as well as any dirt by cleaning with a power washer or by hand-scrubbing with warm, soapy water and thoroughly rinsing. one caution: try to remove stubborn stains on vinyl siding with a wirebrush, sandpaper or a power sander. These can permanently damage your siding. After the surface is dry, paint using a quality paint. Again, you should not paint with a color darker than the original color of the vinyl siding. Why? Because dark colors can absorb the sun's heat, causing the siding panels to warp.

For aluminum siding, any surface oxidation must be completely removed by careful, light rubbing with steel wool. If mildew is present, remove it by scrubbing with a bleach solution (one part bleach to three parts water). Power-wash or hand-scrub with warm, soapy water and rinse. Be sure to remove all chalking, loose paint, dust, dirt, and bleach solution. Spot-prime areas where bare aluminum may be exposed. After the surface is dry, paint as you would any siding using a good quality paint.

For authoritative advice on repainting your vinyl or aluminum siding along with the proper type and quality paint to do the job, check with us.

WANT A PAINT COLOR MATCHED?

Some paint companies claim to "exactly match" any color you can imagine or any object you bring in the store. Maybe it is because of our own high expectations of what a good color match should look like, but we are cautious about over stating human capabilities. Some objects such as fabrics, inks, plants and fruits have color from other sources than we have available in the colorants we use to tint paint. We are limited to the 12 or 16 colorants provided to us by the manufacturer to achieve a paint color. Although we can get darn close, there are times, in our expert eyes, that our match is certainly not exact. Another challenge in matching an object may be that that object is not just one color. If you look closely, a surface may actually be composed of many different colors that seem to be one color from a distance. A third challenge to achieving a good match varing light sources. A great color match under one type of light, may look terrible under a different light source. This phenomona is called metamerism and can drive any paint store crazy. We believe we can match a paint color better than anyone around but do not ever use the words exact or perfect when it comes to paint.

SHOULD I BRUSH, ROLL OR SPRAY?

If I had to pick a side to debate, I would choose brushing and rolling paint. Most painters say, unless there is a lot of surface to paint, considering the masking and cleanup time, they are faster with a brush and roller. With spray, the paint goes everywhere. Outside spray paint will seem to find the nearest expensive car of the opposite color of the paint, causing a pricy car repaint. If you rent an airless sprayer, it will probably break down before you finish the job. The cleanup is very time consuming. Folks ask my opinion on power rollers. My feeling is that I only want my arms in the air for so long. It feels good to change positions long enought to get more paint on the roller, so I'll stick to the old fasion way.

HOW LONG WILL PAINT LAST IN THE CAN?

If your paint can lid is on tight, the outside of the metal can is kept dry, the can is full and the can is stored between freezing and 90 degrees the paint will probably last for many years. Probably what will go wrong first with latex paint is the can lining, that prevents the metal can from rusting internally will start to break down, allowing the can to rust from the inside. If a can of oil base paint is not full, you will probably find a skin over the top next time you open the lid. If the lid on a can of latex paint has been on and off multiple times, scratches in the protective can linner will allow water vapor to start rusting the can around the lid. If this is a concern, you may want to transfer good paint into another container for extended storage. Some latex paints I have found (none I sell, thank goodness) can spoil. The smell will tell you right away it needs to be disposed of....Which leads to...

HOW TO DISPOSE OF UNWANTED PAINT?

To be perfectly accurate, you should probably call the Colorado State Health Dept., but I already did and this is what they told me. First, try to use it up. Second, try to donate it to someone who needs it. Last, add either cat litter absorbant, or a product we sell to solidify the paint (one bag per half gallon of paint) to your latex paint to turn it into a solid. Then it may be put it in the solid waste disposal containers that you use for other trash. Some folks have said they have used the same solidifier with oil base paint, but that doesn't work as well for me. The method I use for getting rid of oil base is to first stir it up, hang the can on a nail from the garage ceiling with the lid off, and every few months, remove and pitch the skin the skin, stir the paint again and hang it back on the nail. I do this until all the paint is gone, then pitch the can. Your county or community may be advanced enough to have a collection site for paint and other hazardous materials.

HOW LONG WILL PAINT LAST ON MY HOUSE?

The proper life span of a coat of paint should be the length of time that it takes for the weather and sun to wear it down. The better paints take longer to weather away. The more severe the weather and exposure to sun, the shorter the life of the coat of the paint. If the paint chips, flakes or peels, something went wrong. That part of the paint did not have a chance to weather away. If the paint comes off in pieces it is probably because the surface was not cleaned before painting or, more likely, water found a crack and got behind the paint. Here is how to get the maximum life out of your paint.

NEED ADVICE ON PAINTING INSIDE YOUR HOME?

There is quite a bit to know but none of it is difficult. There is no reason you cannot have an excellent job if you understand the basics. Let Benjamin Moore talk you through the basics There are some things that can go wrong with a coat of paint applied to the inside of your home. These "problems" are never caused by bad paint. This link may help you identify and solve a paint problem you see with your inside paint.

NEED ADVICE ON PAINTING OUTSIDE YOUR HOME?

Let Benjamin Moore talk you through the basics.

There are some things that can go wrong with a coat of paint applied outside. These "problems" are never caused by bad paint. This link may help you identify the cause of a condition you see on your home.

SHOULD I USE OIL BASE OR LATEX BASE PAINT?

Should I use a water-based latex paint or an oil-based paint? That depends. Both will do an excellent job under most circumstances. Water-based paints have a number of advantages especially for of do-it-yourselfers including water clean-up, fast dry, lower odor and general ease-of-use. In addition, top-quality latex paints generally have excellent adhesion to most surfaces and generally exhibit superior resistance to bleaching and fading when compared to oil-based paints. However, the two areas we strongly recommend the use of oil based paints are on kitchen cabinets, due to the high frequency of handling with oily fingers, and in high humidity areas, such as bathrooms without good ventilation. You know if you have a high humidity problem if the mirrors fog up during a shower or bath, or if there are amber colored droplets on the ceiling. In Colorado, due to our high UV light and 300 days a year of sunshine, and our low humidity, we do not recommend oil based paint being used on outside wood. It becomes too brittle too fast and will quickly begin to crack and peel. Latex used outside will remain flexible, hold its color longer and will not chalk.

WHAT ABOUT PAINT WARRANTEES?

Exterior Paint Warrantees…What is their purpose? Are they helpful at sincerely reassuring consumers of paint longevity, or are they misleading?

When we purchase a new automobile, the manufacturer is kind enough to provide us with a New Owner Manual that helps us understand that we have some responsibilities to receive full value from our purchase and how to keep our warranty in force. In this manual, we are made aware of periodic preventive maintenance tasks, which if not performed, severely shorten our automobile’s life expectancy. Do consumers need a New Owner Manual when they purchase exterior paint?

A typical exterior paint warrantee makes statements similar to, “if the label directions are followed, our paint is warranted against peeling, flaking, blistering as a result in a defect in the product”. In my experience, I have never known of paint ever peeling, flaking or blistering because of a defect in the product. The causes of these failures have always been due to either painting over a dirty or chalky surface (causing inter-coat peeling) or moisture has found some way to get behind the paint (causing peeling to the substrate). Neither of these causes of coating failure would be covered under the terms of the warranty.

From a paint manufacturer’s point of view, the warranty is intended to indicate how long it would take for the elements to wear down the coating. Unfortunately the types of paint failures mentioned in the warrantee usually occur long before the paint has a chance to weather down, “cheating” consumers out of the full value of their paint. The warrantee, or assurance of high paint quality, is perceived by consumers to mean “This paint will not peel, flake or blister, for the term of the warrantee, period.” After the paint job is completed, average consumers ignore their painted surfaces until a condition of degradation is too great to ignore. Without understanding the cause of these paint failures, customers conclude the product has failed to perform properly. Those of us behind the sales counter in our paint stores are well aware of irate customers who never received this education.

It may be more honest and accurate to give this warranty: “We guarantee that if you paint over a dirty or chalky surface, or you allow water to get behind the paint, THE PAINT WILL FALL ON THE GROUND”. It would be wise to immediately follow this statement with, “Now, let us help you understand how you can prevent these failures from happening so you receive the full value out of any exterior paint you use”.

We paint store folks would be of greater service to our customers if we explained that our exterior paint products will eventually need a little annual preventive maintenance and that the paint job may be extended two or three times longer if the consumer takes a little time each year to identify and repair areas that have started to fail. A little scraping, priming, caulking or spackling followed by touch up will prevent the damaged areas from becoming many times worse the following year. On new jobs and maintenance work, priming first, followed by close attention to caulking every space that would otherwise allow moisture intrusion, is important to provide a watertight film.

Providing customers with this knowledge also conveys that we care about the long-term success of their painting efforts. If nothing else, by discussing exterior paint preventive maintenance, our customers will be less likely to blame our products or us if failure does occur

WALL TEXTURING & SKIM COATING?

This website is pretty good to help with this subject.

WANT TO LEARN TO FAUX PAINT?

I found that beginners all have the same basic questions, so I wrote Basic Faux Finishing pamphlet to help remove the mystery.

HAVE ANY LEAD IN PAINT CONCERNS?

Especially when remodeling or sanding old paint you need to understand the potential dangers presented by Lead Based Paint.